I was introduced to
Rotiboy buns in Kuala Lumpur by my good friend Bill in 2012.
I found them to be wonderfully fragrant and tasty, what with its
crunchy crust. The Rotiboy is basically a fluffy butter
bun with a coffee-butter-sugar crust. In Malaysia, it is thought
to have been first seen in Penang. In Mexico, this
type of bun is known as Papparoti buns. In Hong Kong,
there is similar baked offering called Polo bun which is
also a soft bun but with a butter sugar crust (no coffee).
Since Kuching did not have
a Rotiboy outlet until 2022, they were a delight only had
when people in East Malaysia passed through KL. But, here is how
you can make your own:
INGREDIENTS
To make six buns
For the dough:
- 200 g of bread
flour (this is high-protein [meaning gluten] flour).
-
110 mL full cream milk.
-
25 g sugar.
-
45 g of unsalted
butter.
-
1/2 a beaten egg (the
other half goes to ingredients for the crust).
-
some 5 g of instant
dried yeast.
-
3 g salt.
For the crust:
-
3 g instant coffee
powder.
-
1/2 a beaten egg.
-
35 g sugar.
-
40 g unsalted butter.
-
You may choose to add
extra flavouring such as vanilla at this stage (optional).
For the bun filling
(butter/flour paste):
-
19 g unsalted butter.
-
19 g sugar.
-
22 g plain flour.
Rotiboy buns supposedly only have butter knobs added
as filling. However, due several reports from other bakers
that the butter often melts and runs out of the bun during
baking, I decided to make the butter into a paste with
flour. This filling is like that used in the famous Kuching
butter buns (Goo Eu Pao) found at a bakery in Poh
Kwong Park.
METHOD
- Mix (by hand, or in
a mixer with a dough hook), the flour, milk, beaten egg,
sugar and yeast powder.
- When all the
ingredients are well incorporated, add the butter in pieces.
- Continue
kneading/mixing until the dough has become just sticky
enough to want to cling to your hands or the walls of the
bowl and yet will release relatively easily.
-
Roll the dough together into one mass, cover with plastic
wrap in a bowl and let the yeast do its work in producing
carbon dioxide from the added sugar. Be sure that the dough
is sitting at an ambient temperature of at least 30 degrees
centigrade so that the yeast are active.
It is also at this time that the gluten in the flour
hydrates properly and begins to form a network structure,
thus giving the dough elasticity. It is this network
structure and elastic character which traps the carbon
dioxide produced by the yeast to give the dough its airiness
and bounce (air pockets in the dough get sealed in when it
is cooked).
This stage of dough handling is called proofing and it takes
time for gas to be evolved and the gluten network to form.
This is why the dough is set aside a few times during
bun-making (and of other bakery products which are
leavened).
Set the dough aside and let it proof in a warm spot.
-
At this point move to two other parts of the method:
-
Make the bun filling -
Mix the flour, sugar and butter together until well blended.
Divide the filling into 6 portions.
Set aside.
-
Make the bun crusting -
Add 5 mL of hot water to the 3 g of instant coffee powder.
Make sure that it is all dissolved (hard to dissolve while
in the crust mix later).
Add the sugar.
Add the butter.
Add the beaten egg.
Mix well and set aside.
-
After one hour of proofing the dough, confirm that the dough
has increased in size (at least doubled), and then knead it
again for a minute or two to release most of the large
pockets of gas.
-
Divide the dough into 6 portions.
-
Knead and roll into balls.
-
Make an indentation in each dough ball and place a portion
of bun filling in it.
-
Gather the dough around the filling and seal it in.
Roll the ball, flatten it a bit and place on a baking tray.
-
When all six balls are done, pipe the crusting on top of
each dough ball.
The crusting will melt and run down the sides of each dough
ball during baking.
So deposit as much crusting as you think will cover the
dough ball sufficiently after baking.
The thickness of the crusting and its spread depends on the
formulation and baking received and so a few bakes may be
necessary to make adjustments until the crust of your
liking is developed.
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